Ascona

The relatively low-lying canton of Ticino, situated south of the Alps, enjoys a Mediterranean climate and imports a distinctive Italian flavour to Switzerland. The village of Ascona on the shore of Lake Maggiore is a regional centre for the arts and its backstreets are filled with art galleries and craft shops. The community of artists and intellectuals living here at the beginning of the century embraced the ‘back to nature’ movement and welcomed the exiled Lenin for a time. The Museo Comunale D’Arte Moderna includes paintings by artists connected with the town, among them Paul Klee, Hans Arp, Ben Nicholson and Alexej Jawlensky.

Estavayer-le-Lac

This small resort on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel has a perfectly preserved medieval centre, but the real allure is its collection of 130-year-old frogs in the Regional Museum. The stuffed slimeys are the work of 19th-century eccentric, François Perrier, who spent much of his leisure time killing frogs, preserving their skins, and filling them with sand.

He then arranged the frogs in parodies of human situations - courting, studying, playing games, etc - and ornamented them with props. Go figure.

Franches Montagnes

Overlooked by most visitors, this pretty woodlands area in the Jura mountain chain has hiking trails and cross-country ski trails. Horse-riding is also popular, and the horses in the area are supposedly renowned for their gentleness and calm disposition. The main town in the region is Saignelégier, which hosts the national horse show in August.

Château de Chillon

Chillon Castle receives more visitors than any other historical building in Switzerland. Occupying a stunning position right on Lake Geneva, the fortress caught the public imagination when Lord Byron wrote about the fate of Bonivard, a follower of the Reformation who was chained to the fifth pillar in the dungeons for four years in the 16th century.

The castle, still in excellent condition, dates from the 11th century and has been much modified and enlarged since then. It’s worth spending an afternoon viewing the tower, courtyards and dungeons.

Geneva

Geneva is Switzerland’s second-largest city, but surely the most international: a third of the population is from elsewhere. The city is crowded with museums, has many excellent cultural events, even more good restaurants, and is ideally placed for quick hops to the Swiss and French Alps.

Geneva is a great place to get stuck on a rainy day; it’s packed with museums, many with a horological bent. Outside, the towering Jet d’Eau and the pleasant gardens tempt feet in the direction of the lake. There’s also plenty of classic Swiss kitsch to combat the high-brow culture.

Great St Bernard Pass Hospice Museum

Perhaps the Great St Bernard Pass should be renamed the Great Alsation Pass. It might save the local rescue dogs at the local hospice some embarrassment. These days the affable Alsatian breed does the rescuing. The museum explains the importance of the monks’ rescue work and religious vocation, which dates back to the 11th century.

Jungfrau Region

Some of Switzerland’s most magnificent views are found around the peaks of the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger, their rugged flanks made even more awe-inspiring by the greens, and golds of nearby hills and valleys. The best rail trip (it’s the highest railway in Europe) cuts through both the Eiger and the Mönch before terminating at the tip of the majestic Jungfraujoch.

Lake Thun

For some great castle touring head, to the Lake Thun area in central Switzerland, just south of Bern. In the town of Thun itself, you’ll find the 12th-century Schloss Thun on the hill. It contains a good historical museum and there are fine views from the turrets of the Romanesque tower.

One of the best castles around the lake is the 13th-century Schloss Oberhofen, which was once held by the Habsburgs; it has a good collection of grand furniture, portraits and weapons, and even boasts a Turkish smoking room. The gardens were landscaped in the 19th century and are a fine place for a stroll. Schloss Hunegg, at nearby Hilterfingen, was built in the 1860s and renovated in 1900. It’s a fascinating mix of neo-Renaissance and art nouveau styles and has a funky split-level bathroom complete with a nickel-plated bathtub. If you’re a castle buff, you can squeeze in a visit to all three fortifications in a day-trip by boat.

Lucerne

Lucerne is ideally situated in the historic and scenic heart of what many believe to be the ‘true’ Switzerland - picture mountains, lakes, cowbells, alpine villages and meadows full of edelweiss. The charming town straddles the Reuss River on the western edge of Lake Lucerne.

This picturesque old-town centre offers 15th-century buildings with painted facades, towers, a 17th-century Renaissance town hall and postcard-perfect covered bridges. Northeast of the city centre is the poignant Lion Monument, dedicated to the Swiss soldiers who died in the French Revolution.

Zermatt

This swanky skiing and mountaineering resort bathes in the reflected glory of one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, the 4478m (14,691ft) Matterhorn. Skiers come here to enjoy virtually year-round skiing and there are 230km (142mi) of runs in the area.

The more sedentary come simply to enjoy the awe-inspiring views. For some magical vistas of the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks, take the popular cog-wheel railway to Gornergrat. It’s easy to get around Zermatt on foot (the town is car-free) and it’s well worth exploring the Hinter Dorf area, which is crammed with traditional tumble-down wooden Valais homes. A walk in the cemetery is a sobering experience for would-be mountaineers. The names of those who attempted the Matterhorn and Mt Rosa and did not live to tell the tale are inscribed on stone monuments.

Zurich

Zürich is the new Berlin. No hesitation, no competition. This formerly staid banking capital has experienced such a creative explosion in recent years, and such a mushrooming of innovative bars, restaurants and shops that it resembles Berlin’s salad days of the mid-eighties and early nineties.

The city straddles the Limmat River as it leaves Lake Zürich. The pedestrian streets of the old town contain most of the major sights, including winding alleyways, 16th and 17th century houses, guildhalls and courtyards, and rather a lot of fountains (1030 if you’re taking notes).

Bern

Bern is the capital of Switzerland, a European medieval city founded in 1191, on the River Aare. Bern has quite a few attractions and historic sites, as well as an active cultural life. It is here that Albert Einstein worked, the Toblerone chocolate bar is made, and Emmental cheese, known as Swiss Cheese, reached out to the world.

The city of Bern was built with local sandstone in Gothic style with gables, bay windows, and more arcades than any of the city in Europe. Bern claims Switzerland’s highest Gothic cathedral, the Münster-Cathedral, and the Heiliggeist-Kirche, a prime example of 18th century Protestant church architecture. Throughout the city are towers, arcades, and lots of old fountains. The Münster-Terrasse, a square in front of the Cathedral, has been a famous meeting place over the centuries.

The fantastic Clock Tower has puppets that pop out before the hour and perform a little skit. The Museum of Fine Arts exhibits the largest collection in the world of Paul Klee’s paintings. The Swiss Alpine Museum displays a history of the Swiss Alps. Bern has many small theatres.
The River City Tour takes visitors on a boat tour down the River Aare past major sites and under the sandstone bridges. A day trip to Gurten, a mountain next to city offers a wonderful panorama of Bern and the Alps.

Ascona

The relatively low-lying canton of Ticino, situated south of the Alps, enjoys a Mediterranean climate and imports a distinctive Italian flavour to Switzerland. The village of Ascona on the shore of Lake Maggiore is a regional centre for the arts and its backstreets are filled with art galleries and craft shops. The community of artists and intellectuals living here at the beginning of the century embraced the ‘back to nature’ movement and welcomed the exiled Lenin for a time. The Museo Comunale D’Arte Moderna includes paintings by artists connected with the town, among them Paul Klee, Hans Arp, Ben Nicholson and Alexej Jawlensky.

Estavayer-le-Lac

This small resort on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel has a perfectly preserved medieval centre, but the real allure is its collection of 130-year-old frogs in the Regional Museum. The stuffed slimeys are the work of 19th-century eccentric, François Perrier, who spent much of his leisure time killing frogs, preserving their skins, and filling them with sand.

He then arranged the frogs in parodies of human situations - courting, studying, playing games, etc - and ornamented them with props. Go figure.

Franches Montagnes

Overlooked by most visitors, this pretty woodlands area in the Jura mountain chain has hiking trails and cross-country ski trails. Horse-riding is also popular, and the horses in the area are supposedly renowned for their gentleness and calm disposition. The main town in the region is Saignelégier, which hosts the national horse show in August.

Château de Chillon

Chillon Castle receives more visitors than any other historical building in Switzerland. Occupying a stunning position right on Lake Geneva, the fortress caught the public imagination when Lord Byron wrote about the fate of Bonivard, a follower of the Reformation who was chained to the fifth pillar in the dungeons for four years in the 16th century.

The castle, still in excellent condition, dates from the 11th century and has been much modified and enlarged since then. It’s worth spending an afternoon viewing the tower, courtyards and dungeons.

Geneva

Geneva is Switzerland’s second-largest city, but surely the most international: a third of the population is from elsewhere. The city is crowded with museums, has many excellent cultural events, even more good restaurants, and is ideally placed for quick hops to the Swiss and French Alps.

Geneva is a great place to get stuck on a rainy day; it’s packed with museums, many with a horological bent. Outside, the towering Jet d’Eau and the pleasant gardens tempt feet in the direction of the lake. There’s also plenty of classic Swiss kitsch to combat the high-brow culture.

Great St Bernard Pass Hospice Museum

Perhaps the Great St Bernard Pass should be renamed the Great Alsation Pass. It might save the local rescue dogs at the local hospice some embarrassment. These days the affable Alsatian breed does the rescuing. The museum explains the importance of the monks’ rescue work and religious vocation, which dates back to the 11th century.

Jungfrau Region

Some of Switzerland’s most magnificent views are found around the peaks of the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger, their rugged flanks made even more awe-inspiring by the greens, and golds of nearby hills and valleys. The best rail trip (it’s the highest railway in Europe) cuts through both the Eiger and the Mönch before terminating at the tip of the majestic Jungfraujoch.

Lake Thun

For some great castle touring head, to the Lake Thun area in central Switzerland, just south of Bern. In the town of Thun itself, you’ll find the 12th-century Schloss Thun on the hill. It contains a good historical museum and there are fine views from the turrets of the Romanesque tower.

One of the best castles around the lake is the 13th-century Schloss Oberhofen, which was once held by the Habsburgs; it has a good collection of grand furniture, portraits and weapons, and even boasts a Turkish smoking room. The gardens were landscaped in the 19th century and are a fine place for a stroll. Schloss Hunegg, at nearby Hilterfingen, was built in the 1860s and renovated in 1900. It’s a fascinating mix of neo-Renaissance and art nouveau styles and has a funky split-level bathroom complete with a nickel-plated bathtub. If you’re a castle buff, you can squeeze in a visit to all three fortifications in a day-trip by boat.

Lucerne

Lucerne is ideally situated in the historic and scenic heart of what many believe to be the ‘true’ Switzerland - picture mountains, lakes, cowbells, alpine villages and meadows full of edelweiss. The charming town straddles the Reuss River on the western edge of Lake Lucerne.

This picturesque old-town centre offers 15th-century buildings with painted facades, towers, a 17th-century Renaissance town hall and postcard-perfect covered bridges. Northeast of the city centre is the poignant Lion Monument, dedicated to the Swiss soldiers who died in the French Revolution.

Zermatt

This swanky skiing and mountaineering resort bathes in the reflected glory of one of the most famous peaks in the Alps, the 4478m (14,691ft) Matterhorn. Skiers come here to enjoy virtually year-round skiing and there are 230km (142mi) of runs in the area.

The more sedentary come simply to enjoy the awe-inspiring views. For some magical vistas of the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks, take the popular cog-wheel railway to Gornergrat. It’s easy to get around Zermatt on foot (the town is car-free) and it’s well worth exploring the Hinter Dorf area, which is crammed with traditional tumble-down wooden Valais homes. A walk in the cemetery is a sobering experience for would-be mountaineers. The names of those who attempted the Matterhorn and Mt Rosa and did not live to tell the tale are inscribed on stone monuments.

Zurich

Zürich is the new Berlin. No hesitation, no competition. This formerly staid banking capital has experienced such a creative explosion in recent years, and such a mushrooming of innovative bars, restaurants and shops that it resembles Berlin’s salad days of the mid-eighties and early nineties.

The city straddles the Limmat River as it leaves Lake Zürich. The pedestrian streets of the old town contain most of the major sights, including winding alleyways, 16th and 17th century houses, guildhalls and courtyards, and rather a lot of fountains (1030 if you’re taking notes).

Currency: Swiss Franc
Meals

Budget: Swf6-12
Mid-range: Swf12-25
High: Swf25-45
Deluxe: Swf45+

Lodging

Budget: Swf20-180
Mid-range: Swf180-260
High: Swf260-420
Deluxe: Swf420+ (more…)