Copenhagen (Danish: København) is the capital and largest city of Denmark. The contemporary Danish name for the city is a corruption of the original designation for the city, “Købmandshavn,” or “Merchants’ Harbour” in Danish. The English word for the city is derived from its German name, “Kopenhagen.” Copenhagen is home to the national parliament, government, and monarchy, which are all situated in the heart of the city.

Copenhagen has been Denmark’s capital for 600 years. It’s an appealing and largely low-rise city comprised of block after block of period six-storey buildings. Church steeples punctuate the skyline, with only a couple of modern hotels marring the view.

No matter what your interests, Copenhagen has a whole lot of sightseeing and entertainment on offer. Historic or modern, gay or straight, sleek shops or cosy cafes - it’s all nestled right in the heart of a compact city and presented with typical Scandinavian assurance and flair.

The city’s seemingly interminable pedestrian mall, Strøget, supplies numerous options for shopping and entertainment, from street theatre to offstreet theatre, while the famous Tivoli fun park serves up amusement in more traditional forms, and the cosmopolitan Latin Quarter will leave you covered in aromatic coffee grounds.

There’s plenty of the green stuff in the city centre, with a couple of large parks and gardens in which to doze or ramble. If even that sounds too energetic, try a cruise through the canals of Christianshavn, saving just enough adrenalin for a courteous nod in the direction of the Little Mermaid.

Architecturally, Copenhagen has more than its share of interesting sights, from the administrative palace of Christiansborg Slot on the island of Slotsholmen to the scenic steeple of Vor Frelsers Kirke. The Danish capital pretty much covers all the needs of the international visitor, and does it with typical Scandinavian assurance and flair.

Area: 88 sq km
Population: 662,000
Country: Denmark
Time Zone: GMT/UTC +1 (Central Euroepan Time)
Telephone Area Code: There are no area codes in Denmark; just dial the eight-digit number.

Orientation

Copenhagen sits on the east coast of Denmark’s largest island, Zealand (Sjælland). A prominent point of orientation in the city is the main rail station, Central Station (Hoved Banegården), which is bordered to the west by the primary hotel precinct and to the northeast by the longstanding entertainment attraction of Tivoli. Just north of Tivoli is Rådhuspladsen, the central city square and the main terminus for the local bus network. To the east is the city’s waterfront, including the canal-riddled district of Christianshavn.

Copenhagen boasts the world’s longest mall, Strøget, which is an amalgamation of five streets - Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv and Østergade - running right through the centre of the city between Rådhuspladsen and Kongens Nytorv, the square at the head of the Nyhavn canal.

Getting There & Away

Most planes landing in Denmark from overseas will bounce their way down the runways of Copenhagen international airport (Kastrup) to the south of the city; this is one of northern Europe’s main air entry points and a multitude of international carriers fly here. Departure tax is included in the ticket price. Denmark’s domestic carrier, Maersk Air, links the capital with Billund, Esbjerg and Rønne.

Central Station is where you can catch buses and trains to elsewhere in Denmark and trains to Sweden.

The imposing bulk of Central Station (Hoved Banegården) is the terminal for rail services east across the Øresund to Sweden and west across Zealand to the other main Danish regions of Funen and Jutland.

The cheapest earthbound way of travelling to Copenhagen from elsewhere in Europe is by bus; the biggest regional operator servicing the city is Eurolines.

Getting Around

The city’s extensive public transport system comprises a rail network called S-train, with 10 lines passing through Central Station, and a bus system called HT (or Hovedstadsområdets Trafikselskab for those who like tongue-twisters) that uses Rådhuspladsen as its main terminal. Fares for both are charged according to a zone system, with a variety of single, multiple-ride or daily tickets available.

Copenhagen doesn’t have the traffic snarls of many European cities, and it’s quite flat, so it’s eminently suited to walking and biking.

If you want to explore Copenhagen’s waterways, various companies run organised boat tours around the city’s canals.

The brand-new metro system, which is driverless connects the east and west of Copenhagen via the city centre. Parts of the system are still under construction until 2007, when it will finally connect with the airport.

A car isn’t necessary for exploring the inner-city sights, which are easily accessible via a leisurely stroll or public transport, but is useful for getting further afield. Unlike the driving in many other European capital cities, Copenhagen’s is manageable; morning and afternoon peak-hour bottlenecks are the only real hassle.

Taxis are a good, albeit expensive, alternative to getting behind the wheel.

Excellent bike paths, lots of bike racks and no hills make cycling a great option for getting around; just remember to lock up your bike.

When to Go

In the coldest winter months of January and February, the average daytime temperature hovers around freezing point. But fear not, May to September is much more comfortable, although realistically you can expect to see rain and grey skies during most of the year. The most popular months for visitors to Denmark are May, June, July and August, although Copenhagen has a healthy peppering of festivals throughout the year so you’ll always find something to inspire you.

Events

The Night Film Festival (Natfilm Festival) takes place over 10 days in March, and features more than 100 Danish and international films in their original languages. The three-day Copenhagen Carnival is held over the Whitsunday weekend (usually late May or early June), filling the streets of the city centre with parades, samba dancing and other organised festivities.

Beach bonfires are lit up all around the country on Midsummer Eve; also called Sankt Hans Aften (23 June), while those who enjoy a good flaring of the nostrils should head for Klampenborg just to the north of Copenhagen for Denmark’s most important horse race, the Danish Derby. The Copenhagen Jazz Festival gets toes a-tappin’ over 10 days in early July, but if chamber or classical music is more your thing, hang out for the Sommerkoncerter i Vor Frue Kirk (Summer Concerts in Vor Frue Kirk), summer concerts held throughout August.

In late August the Danish capital plays host to the Golden Days in Copenhagen, with art exhibits, poetry readings and theatre focusing on Denmark’s ‘Golden Age’ (1800-50). Christmas is a big celebratory deal around the country and it’ll be hard to escape the numerous feel-good community fairs no matter where you are.

Public holidays include New Year’s day, Maundy Thursday (Thursday before Easter), Good Friday (Friday before Easter), Easter Monday, Common Prayer Day (fourth Friday after Easter), Ascension Day, Whitsunday (seventh Sunday after Easter), Whitmonday (eighth Monday after Easter), Constitution Day (5 June), Christmas Eve (from noon), Christmas Day and Boxing Day (26 December).

Public Holidays
1 Jan - New Year’s Day
Mar/Apr - Maundy Thursday
Mar/Apr - Good Friday
Mar/Apr - Easter Sunday
Mar/Apr - Easter Monday
fourth Friday after Easter - Common Prayer Day
sixth Thursday after Easter - Ascension Day
seventh Sunday after Easter - Whitsunday
eighth Monday after Easter - Whitmonday
5 Jun - Constitution Day
24 Dec - Christmas Eve
25 Dec - Christmas Day
26 Dec - Boxing Day

Attractions

Christianshavn & Christiania

One of the highlights of the canal-punctured district of Christianshavn is Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour’s Church), topped by a 95m (311ft), 400-step spiral steeple which affords breathtaking views over the city. On the eastern side of the district is the self-labelled ‘progressive’ community of Christiania.

Christiania started life as a military camp before being abandoned and taken over in 1971 by ambitious squatters who proclaimed their own ‘free state’.

It never achieved full independence but still enjoys status as a rent- and tax-free enclave and a lively, arts-soaked environment. You can stroll or cycle through the area (cars aren’t allowed) and check out the local craft market or organic food eateries - informative guided tours are offered daily throughout summer.

Latin Quarter

Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter surrounds the old campus of Copenhagen University and brims with pedestrians, cafes and bookshops. Kultorvet, a plaza just to the north of the Latin Quarter, is particularly busy during summer, when its beer gardens and produce stalls are well attended, and when buskers will endeavour to win your patronage.

Directly opposite the university grounds is Vor Frue Kirke (Our Lady’s Church), the city’s striking neoclassical cathedral which was originally built in the late 12th century and then rebuilt three times after succumbing to various pesky fires. The interior is decorated with sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen’s acclaimed statues of Christ and the 12 apostles.

Good views of the city’s rooftops are available from the summit of the Rundetårn (Round Tower), a 35m-high (115ft) pile of bricks a few blocks east of the Latin Quarter. The Rundetårn was erected as an observatory in 1642 and is still used by amateur astronomers in the wintertime, qualifying it as the oldest functioning observatory in Europe.

Nationalmuseet

Nationalmuseet (the National Museum) is a must-see for anyone who wants a comprehensive grounding in Danish history and culture. True to its name, Nationalmuseet has the biggest collection of Danish historical artefacts in the country. On Sundays in summer the ambience is enhanced by free chamber music concerts.

Nationalmuseet has dibs on virtually every antiquity found on Danish soils, whether it was unearthed by a farmer ploughing his fields or a government-sponsored archaeological dig.

The artefacts date from the Upper Palaeolithic period to the mid-19th century. Highlights include the Sun Chariot, which is over 3500 years old, and an exhibition of 3000-year-old bronze lur (Danish horns).

Rosenborg Slot

Rosenborg Slot houses a museum and the treasury where the royal regalia and jewels are kept. Downstairs is a public viewing room where you can marvel at incredible jewellery.

It was built in Dutch Renaissance style by Christian IV to serve as his summer home. A century later Frederik IV, who felt cramped at Rosenborg, built a roomier palace north of the city in the town of Fredensborg.

The 24 rooms in the castle’s upper levels are chronologically arranged, housing the furnishings and portraits of each monarch from Christian IV to Frederik VII. However, the main attraction lies on the lower level, where the dazzling collection of crown jewels are displayed.

These include Christian IV’s ornately designed crown; the jewel-studded sword of Christian III; and Queen Margrethe II’s emeralds and pearls, which are kept here when the queen is not wearing them to official functions. These items are considered such a national treasure that the queen is not permitted to take the royal jewels with her when she travels outside Denmark.

Slotsholmen

Slotsholmen is a groovy island connected to the rest of Copenhagen by small bridges, and is the place that Denmark’s national government calls home. Slotsholmen attracts large numbers of visitors who come to check out the palatial (literally) government office.

The original Christiansborg palace was constructed in the 1730s to replace the pokey Copenhagen Castle and several buildings, namely the royal stables and edifices surrounding the main courtyard, date from this time.

Folketinget, the parliamentary chamber, can be toured on Sunday year-round, as well as on weekdays over summer, and this includes a peek at Wanderer’s Hall, which contains the original copy of Denmark’s Constitution.

For sheer Renaissance grandness, De Kongelige Repræsentationslokaler (the Royal Reception Chambers) won’t disappoint - it’s where royal banquets are scoffed and heads of state entertained. Underneath the palace are the excavated ruins of two earlier castles, including Bishop Absalom’s original 1167 effort.

Tivoli & Strøget

Funsters will want to head to Tivoli, the popular amusement park-cum-flower garden in the heart of the city. At the north corner of the park is Strøget, a long chain of five streets replete with shops and eateries and a myriad of entertainment options including street theatre and cinemas.

The famed Tivoli park has been operating for over 150 years and so has had plenty of time to figure out how to best cater to the hordes of tourists and locals, many trailing enthusiastic youngsters, who flock there between mid-April and late-September each year. There are all the usual fun-park attractions, such as roller coasters, Ferris wheel, open-air performances, carnival games and food pavilions. For the more cultured fun-loving palates, there are also traditional folk dances and a large concert hall hosting international symphony orchestras and ballet troupes. Tivoli also opens up for a few weeks prior to Christmas for holiday festivities, a seasonal market and ice-skating on the lake.

When you’ve had all the gee-whiz, whoop-it-up, wallet-emptying festivities you can stomach, stagger out in a calmer consumer-oriented manner up the world’s longest pedestrian mall, Strøget.